Replacing a toilet is one of the most approachable DIY plumbing projects a homeowner can tackle. Whether your old toilet is cracked, constantly running, or you just want a more water-efficient model, you can complete the swap in an afternoon — no professional required.
This guide walks you through the tools you'll need, the rough costs to budget for, and the estimated time to get the job done.
Tools & Materials Needed
Tools
- Adjustable wrench — for loosening supply line nuts and closet bolts
- Bucket and sponge — to drain and clean out the old toilet bowl
- Putty knife or scraper — for removing the old wax ring residue
- Towels / rags — for cleanup and protecting your floor
- Flathead screwdriver — for prying off bolt caps and minor adjustments
- Tape measure — to confirm the new toilet's rough-in distance (12" is standard)
- Level — to make sure the new toilet sits flat
- Caulking gun — for sealing the base to the floor (optional but recommended)
Materials
- New toilet (bowl, tank, seat, and hardware kit)
- Wax ring (or wax-free alternative gasket)
- Closet bolts (usually included with the toilet, but good to have extras)
- Flexible water supply line (braided stainless steel, 12"–20")
- Silicone caulk (for the base — paintable, mildew-resistant)
Rough Costs
| Item | Estimated Cost | |---|---| | New toilet (basic, round bowl) | $120 – $200 | | New toilet (elongated, mid-range) | $200 – $400 | | New toilet (high-efficiency / dual-flush) | $300 – $600 | | Wax ring | $3 – $8 | | Flexible supply line | $8 – $15 | | Closet bolts (extra set) | $3 – $6 | | Silicone caulk | $5 – $10 | | Total (DIY, basic toilet) | ~$140 – $240 | | Total (DIY, mid-range toilet) | ~$220 – $440 |
Tip: If you hire a plumber, expect to add $150 – $350 in labor on top of the toilet cost. Doing it yourself can save you the full labor charge.
Estimated Time
- Removing the old toilet: 30 – 45 minutes
- Prepping the flange and floor: 15 – 30 minutes
- Installing the new toilet: 45 – 60 minutes
- Sealing and final checks: 15 minutes
Total estimated time: 1.5 to 2.5 hours
This assumes the flange is in good condition and the supply line connects without issues. If the floor flange is cracked or the supply valve is corroded, add an extra 30–60 minutes (and possibly a trip to the hardware store).
Quick Step-by-Step Overview
- Shut off the water at the supply valve behind the toilet, then flush to drain the tank and bowl.
- Disconnect the supply line from the tank.
- Remove the closet bolt caps and unscrew the nuts at the base.
- Lift the old toilet straight up and set it on a towel (it's heavy — get help if needed).
- Scrape off the old wax ring and clean the flange. Stuff a rag in the drain opening to prevent sewer gas from escaping.
- Place the new wax ring on the flange (or on the horn of the new toilet, per manufacturer instructions).
- Position the new toilet by aligning the closet bolts with the holes, then press down firmly to compress the wax ring.
- Tighten the closet bolts evenly — alternate sides, and don't overtighten (the porcelain can crack).
- Install the tank (if not pre-assembled), connect the supply line, and turn the water back on.
- Check for leaks, then caulk around the base once everything is dry and seated.
When to Call a Pro
Most homeowners can handle a standard toilet swap, but consider hiring a licensed plumber if:
- The floor flange is cracked, rotted, or leaking.
- The subfloor shows water damage or softness.
- The supply valve won't shut off completely or is corroded.
- You're relocating the toilet to a new position (which involves moving the drain).
Need a hand finding a trusted plumber on Long Island? SideKick connects homeowners in Nassau and Suffolk with verified local contractors. Post a project and get bids from pros near you.